Winter is when South India works best. The heat drops, the hills are clear and the backwaters are calm. This is the 12-day route we suggest most often to guests who want both Tamil Nadu's temple towns and Kerala's green, without spending half the trip in a car.
It runs from Chennai to Kochi, so you'll need an open-jaw flight. Everything in between is by road, with one driver and one car the whole way.
Is winter really the best time for South India?
Mostly, yes, with one catch. Tamil Nadu gets its main rain from the northeast monsoon, roughly October to early December, and Chennai and the coast can flood in a bad year. That's why we'd start this route from mid-December at the earliest. January and February are the sweet spot. By late March, Madurai is properly hot.
Kerala is pleasant from November to February. Munnar nights can be chilly, so pack a fleece.
The south India itinerary for 12 days, at a glance
- Days 1 to 2: Chennai arrival, Mahabalipuram
- Day 3: Pondicherry
- Day 4: Thanjavur
- Day 5: Chettinad (Karaikudi)
- Day 6: Madurai
- Days 7 to 8: Munnar
- Day 9: Thekkady
- Day 10: Alleppey houseboat
- Days 11 to 12: Fort Kochi and departure
Day 1: Chennai to Mahabalipuram
Most international flights land in Chennai at night. Rather than sleep in the city, we drive straight down the East Coast Road to Mahabalipuram. It's around 1.5 to 2 hours depending on traffic, and you wake up by the sea instead of on a flyover.
Day 2: Mahabalipuram
Go to the Shore Temple early, before the tour buses from Chennai arrive. Arjuna's Penance, the huge carved rock face, is a short walk away, and the Five Rathas are best in late afternoon light. You'll hear chisels all over town: stone carving is still the main trade here. Keep the rest of the day slow. You've just flown in.
Day 3: Mahabalipuram to Pondicherry
About two and a half hours. Stop on the way if you like at a quiet beach, then spend the afternoon walking the old French quarter, with its yellow walls, bougainvillea and bakeries. Honestly, Pondicherry is a place to wander and eat rather than tick off sights. One night is enough for most people; add a second if you want Auroville.
Day 4: Pondicherry to Thanjavur
This is the longest drive of the Tamil Nadu section, roughly four and a half to five hours. We break it at Gangaikondacholapuram or Darasuram, two Chola temples that see far fewer visitors than the big one in Thanjavur. Your driver will stop for filter coffee at some point. Say yes.
Reach Thanjavur by mid-afternoon and see the Brihadeeswara Temple in the late light, when the granite turns gold.
A note on phones: Tamil Nadu has tightened the rules on carrying mobiles inside major temples, and at Madurai they've been banned for years. Expect to leave your phone at a counter at the entrance, and dress with shoulders and knees covered. Shoes come off at the gate too.
Day 5: Thanjavur to Chettinad
A short drive, about two hours, to Karaikudi and the Chettinad villages. This is the stop people skip, and it's the one place on the route where we'd add a night if you can. The old merchant mansions are enormous, some half-ruined, with Burmese teak pillars and Italian tiles, and the villages are quiet. Stay in a restored heritage house. The food is the other reason to come: Chettinad cooking is peppery and properly spiced, so ask for it mild if you need to.
Day 6: Chettinad to Madurai
About two hours. Afternoon at the Meenakshi Amman Temple, which is huge, busy and completely absorbing. Go back after dark if you can; the evening ceremony is the time to be there. Take a guide. It's easy to spend two hours inside and see very little without one. Our Madurai page has more on what's around the temple.
Day 7: Madurai to Munnar
You'll cross from Tamil Nadu into Kerala today. The drive is roughly four and a half to five hours, with the last part climbing through hairpin bends and tea estates. It's beautiful and slow. If anyone in your group gets carsick, tell your driver in the morning, and take something before you set off.
This is where the vehicle matters. For two people a sedan is fine; for three or more, or anyone who gets queasy on bends, we'd use a Toyota Innova Crysta. It handles the ghat roads better and the back seat is much more comfortable.
Day 8: Munnar
Walk through a tea estate in the morning, when the pickers are out. Visit the tea museum if you want the history. Eravikulam National Park is the place for the Nilgiri tahr, but it closes for the calving season (in recent years that's been February and March), so check before you build a day around it. Munnar town itself is untidy and busy. Stay out of town, on an estate, if you can.
Day 9: Munnar to Thekkady
About three and a half to four hours through cardamom country. In Thekkady, the Periyar boat ride is popular but can be crowded and the wildlife sightings are hit and miss. We prefer a guided nature walk in the reserve early the next morning, or a spice garden visit in the afternoon. Be honest with yourself about what you want: this isn't a tiger-safari park.
Day 10: Thekkady to Alleppey, houseboat night
Roughly four hours down to the backwaters. Board your houseboat around midday. The boat cruises through the afternoon, moors for the night by early evening and moves again in the morning. We've written a separate guide on choosing a Kerala houseboat without the tourist traps, including where to moor and what it costs.
Day 11: Alleppey to Fort Kochi
Check out around 9am. If there's time, take a short canoe ride through the village canals first, then drive about an hour and a half to Fort Kochi. Walk the old quarter, see the Chinese fishing nets at sunset, and book a Kathakali performance for the evening. Arrive early to watch the make-up being applied. It takes longer than the show.
Day 12: Departure
Kochi airport is about an hour from Fort Kochi, more at rush hour. If your flight is late, spend the morning in Mattancherry among the spice warehouses.
What would we change?
If you have two more days, add a night in Chettinad and a second night in Fort Kochi. If you're short on time, drop Pondicherry and drive Mahabalipuram to Thanjavur directly, which is long but doable. For a slower version with more of Tamil Nadu, look at our 16-day Tamil Nadu and Kerala tour.
We don't recommend flying between Madurai and Kochi to save the drive. You'd skip Munnar and Thekkady, which are half the point of doing the Kerala side by road.
FAQ
Is 12 days enough for South India?
It's enough for one good loop through Tamil Nadu and Kerala. It isn't enough to add Hampi, Mysore or Goa without rushing.
How long are the drives?
Most days are two to four hours. The longest are Pondicherry to Thanjavur and Madurai to Munnar, both around five hours with stops.
Can we do this route in December?
From mid-December, usually yes. Earlier in December, the Tamil Nadu coast can still get heavy rain, so we'd keep the plan flexible.
Is it suitable for children?
Yes, though the Munnar road isn't kind to anyone prone to carsickness. The houseboat night is usually the highlight for kids.
Tell us your dates and how you like to travel through our enquiry form, and we'll price this route with your choice of hotels, a car and driver throughout, and local guides at the temples.
