Pushkar has a reputation problem, and it is a flattering one. The camel fair is so famous that people assume the town is empty the rest of the year, or that it only makes sense in November. In fact most of the guests who tell us Pushkar was the highlight of their trip went nowhere near the fair. They came in February or March, stayed two nights, and found a small pilgrim town built around a lake, where the loudest sound in the evening is the temple bells.

This is a guide to that Pushkar. If you are planning around the fair itself, our Pushkar Camel Fair guide covers that week.

What kind of place it is

Pushkar is one of the holiest towns in Hinduism, and that shapes daily life more than tourism does. The lake is sacred; the town is vegetarian by custom and by local rule, including eggs, and alcohol is not sold. Hotels and cafés respect this, and so should visitors. It is a small town — you can walk the lake circuit in under an hour — with the Aravalli hills on three sides and a tangle of lanes, rooftop cafés and shops selling everything from brass to backpacks.

The lake and the ghats

Everything in Pushkar faces the lake. Fifty-odd ghats step down to the water, and each has its own temple, its own families of priests and its own rhythm. Early morning is when you see the town at its most itself: pilgrims bathing, priests performing rituals for families, the light coming up over the hills. Evening brings the aarti, with lamps and bells on several ghats at once.

Two practical rules. Shoes come off before you step onto any ghat, and you should not photograph people bathing. Both are simple, and both are enforced by people who will tell you, politely and firmly.

The flower offering — know how it works before you arrive

Someone will almost certainly offer you a flower "for the lake" near the ghats. Accepting it leads into a short puja, a blessing for your family, and then a request for a donation that is often far larger than anyone expects. Pilgrims genuinely do perform these rituals, and there is nothing wrong with taking part if you want to, but agree the amount first, or simply say no thank you and keep walking. Our drivers brief every guest on this before they reach the lake.

The temples worth your time

  • Brahma Temple. One of very few temples in India dedicated to Brahma, the creator. It is a working temple rather than a monument: cameras and bags are left outside, and the queue moves steadily.
  • Savitri Mata Temple. On Ratnagiri hill above the town, dedicated to Brahma's consort. There is a long flight of steps or a ropeway. Go for sunset: the view over the lake, the town and the desert beyond is the best in Pushkar.
  • Old Rangji Temple. A South Indian–style gateway in the middle of a Rajasthani town, and a good example of how many traditions meet here.
  • Varaha Temple. Near the main bazaar, dedicated to Vishnu's boar incarnation, and usually far quieter than Brahma.

Around Pushkar: half-days that are worth it

Ajmer

Fifteen kilometres away over a hill road, Ajmer is home to the dargah of Khwaja Moinuddin Chishti, one of the most important Sufi shrines in South Asia. Pilgrims of every faith visit. Thursday evenings, when qawwali is sung in the courtyard, are the most moving time to go. Cover your head, dress modestly, and expect crowds; we drop guests as close as vehicles are allowed and they walk the last stretch through the market.

The rose fields

The farmland around Pushkar grows roses on a large scale, for temple garlands, rose water and gulkand, the sweet rose preserve. In the late-winter and spring flowering season, an early-morning visit to a farm, followed by breakfast, is one of the gentlest mornings you can have in Rajasthan.

The dunes on the edge of town

Pushkar sits right on the edge of sand country. A short camel or jeep ride out to the dunes at sunset is simple and not remotely wild, but it is a good taste of the desert for anyone not continuing to Jaisalmer.

Where to stay

Pushkar's hotels fall into three groups, and which one suits you depends on how much of the town you want outside your window.

  • Lakeside guesthouses and havelis. Small, often simple, with rooftops over the ghats. You hear the temple bells at five in the morning, which is either the point or a problem.
  • Heritage and resort hotels on the edge of town. Quieter, with gardens and pools, a short drive or a fifteen-minute walk from the lake. This is where most of our guests stay.
  • Desert camps. A handful operate outside town year-round, busier around the fair. Good for one night of dunes and stars.

Eating in a vegetarian town

Nobody leaves Pushkar hungry. The thali restaurants around the main bazaar serve Rajasthani dal, seasonal vegetables and fresh rotis, refilled until you stop them. Malpua, a syrup-soaked pancake fried in ghee, is the town's sweet, and the shops near the Brahma Temple make it fresh every morning. The rooftop cafés cater to travellers with falafel, wood-fired pizza and good coffee, and most of them have a view of the lake at sunset. For more on what to order, see our piece on why Indian food is more than curry.

When to go

October to March is comfortable, with cool mornings in December and January. February and March are our favourites: warm days, clear skies, and the town busy with pilgrims rather than tour groups. April to June is hot, and the monsoon (July to September) turns the hills green and refills the lake, which some guests love. Avoid the fair week if what you want is calm, and see our month-by-month guide to Rajasthan for the wider picture.

How it fits into a route

Pushkar sits neatly between the Golden Triangle and western Rajasthan, which is why so many of our tours use it as the break in a long drive:

  • Jaipur to Pushkar: about 150 km, around three hours on the highway via Ajmer.
  • Pushkar to Jodhpur: around four hours.
  • Pushkar to Udaipur: around five hours, often with a stop at Chittorgarh.

Two nights is the right amount. One night means you arrive tired and leave early, and the town's pleasures are all mornings and evenings. Couples usually travel in a sedan or an Innova Crysta; families and small groups of six to ten are more comfortable in a Force Urbania. Our 15-night Classic Rajasthan tour includes Pushkar with exactly this pacing.

Common questions

Is Pushkar worth visiting outside the camel fair?

Yes. Many guests prefer it. You see a working pilgrim town instead of a festival, hotels cost less, and the ghats and temples are far easier to enjoy.

Can you drink alcohol or eat meat in Pushkar?

No. The town is vegetarian, including eggs, and alcohol is not sold. The food is excellent anyway: Pushkar's cafés and thali restaurants are among the best vegetarian eating in Rajasthan.

Is one day in Pushkar enough?

It is possible as a stop between Jaipur and Jodhpur, but two nights let you see the ghats at dawn and the Savitri temple at sunset, which are the two best moments in the town.

What should I wear?

Shoulders and knees covered near the lake and in temples. You will be taking shoes off many times a day, so wear something easy to slip on.

Add Pushkar to your trip

Pushkar is where we slow a Rajasthan itinerary down, and it is often the stop guests remember most. If you are wondering whether it fits your dates or your route, tell us your plans and we will send a day-by-day itinerary with honest drive times and a price within 24 hours.